I know from personal experience that finding the right foundation color can be annoying AF! With Rihanna shaking up the industry with her 40 shades of Fenty Beauty foundation, several other brands have followed suit to become more inclusive. Though having so many options has made this daunting task a little easier, you still have the process of color matching. While it should be as simple as testing a foundation, buying it, and all is well with the world – it doesn’t always work out that way. Based on product formulation, your base can go from flawless to “WTF is that?” within a couple of hours. The culprit could be bad store lighting, or just good old-fashioned oxidization. For those who are unfamiliar with the term, oxidization refers to foundation changing color after exposure to oxygen. It doesn’t usually happen instantly, it can take some time for your foundation to oxidize, making what seemed like your perfect skin match a complete failure. Horrible, right? In walks Lancôme to the rescue.
Lancôme has introduced a custom made foundation service called Le Teint Particulier (they’re fancy), ensuring a perfect match every time. There are 8,000 shade possibilities (may I just say wow), 3 coverage levels, and 3 hydration levels. How does this magical concept work? A Lancôme Color Expert scans your face with a special machine to evaluate your skin tone and undertone, you select your desired coverage and specify your skin type, the foundation is mixed right front of you, and your custom matched foundation is bottled with your name and skin identification number on it for easy refills. Talk about stepping up your foundation game!
One of the most seemingly strange makeup trends to surface, is mixing oil with foundation. To all the oily gals, I know this may sound gross, but trust me – it’s a thing! Several of my clients have been asking me about this, because they are seeing it everywhere as a part of makeup routines online. Instagram, You Tube, and Facebook have been swarming with countless videos of makeup enthusiasts using this tactic. Video after video show girls (and guys) with their trustee oil filled droppers, lubing up their foundation. Why would anyone do this? There are 2 good reasons why, and here they go:
The most obvious reason for implementing this makeup trick is to add some much needed moisture to parched skin. When applying foundation on dry skin, the product can build up in the patchy areas, leaving a very uneven finish. Adding oil to foundation is also a way to temporarily “plump up” fine lines for a more youthful look. The oil moisturizes the skin, and gives it a healthy glow for a smoother appearance.
While most would say that mixing oil into foundation sounds like it would clog pores and lead to breakouts, what most people don’t know is that a high percentage of foundations already contain oil. Mixing in a little oil to your cream or liquid foundation changes the texture of formula, and actually helps it spread easier. Adding 1-2 drops of oil to your base, allows you to effortlessly blend it out to achieve a skin-like finish.
Clearly this trick isn’t for everybody, but it’s worth giving a shot. Just make sure that you use a carrier oil (such as coconut oil or almond oil). One of my faves is the coconut oil by Measurable Difference.
If you have naturally pigmented lips, lipsticks will tend to look different on you than they do in the tube. Getting a truer color is simple though. First, apply foundation to your lips. Then, put a thin layer of powder on top. Finally, put your lipstick (and lipliner, if you wish) over this. Not only will you get a truer color, but your lipstick will last longer!
It can be hard to find the right foundation shade if you have freckles. Do you match it to the freckle? Definitely not! The skin in between? Some makeup artists think so–but I vote no. This can result in an ashy or unnaturally pale look. Go about one shade darker–and keep the formula sheer to let those beautiful freckles shine!
I’ve noticed a trend over the last few months while I’m working, very often someone will point to my makeup station and say “What’s that pink thing and what does it do?” The item that they are referring to is a pink tear drop shaped sponge called a Beauty Blender. I used to give anyone who asked a crazy look because I was shocked that they didn’t know what it was (Beauty Blender marketed the hell out of that thing, I thought people on Mars knew) but it occurred to me that there are plenty of folks that have never seen or heard of this product before. Sometimes as a professional Makeup Artist I forget that not everyone keeps up with the makeup trends – even the ones that I deem omnipresent like the Beauty Blender.
The Beauty Blender makeup sponge was created by a Hollywood Makeup Artist to give a flawless finish to the skin that would look great on HD cameras. Those darn HD cameras pick up every single pore in your face so you really need to make sure the makeup is blended well and has a realistic, non-cakey appearance. It became available to the public a few years ago so that everyday women can look gorgeous too. The sponge starts off pretty small but in order to use it properly, it needs to be immersed in water (this helps the sponge blend makeup to a flawless airbrush finish) and it expands to about twice its original size. Beauty Blenders are very soft and can be used with liquid, cream, or wax foundation. It really is a secret weapon for applying foundation effortlessly!
I use it too!
I personally love the Beauty Blender and use them on the majority of my clients, even the male ones. Initially I was turned off by its price tag of $20, I thought no sponge was that amount of money but after I tried one I changed my mind quickly – I now own 8 of them! You can find them in retail stores like Sephora and Ricky’s NYC but you can buy them directly from their website.